Why deal with the bike contract at all?
When selling a car, you can’t do without a written contract and an overwrite in the registry. But with a bike, the rules are different. There is no central register for bikes and ownership is transferred easily. Maybe that’s why people often wave their hands over the sales contract. But even with an “innocent” bike purchase, there can be a problem:
- The bike is stolen – and you have no idea.
- After a week of riding, the drive stops working – and the seller says you caused it.
- You didn’t notice the condition of the bike and equipment – and after handing it over, the seller swears there was an expensive saddle and lock.
A written contract of sale can protect you in these cases. Plus, it’s proof of when, from whom and on what terms you bought the bike.
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What should a bike purchase contract contain?
Unlike a car, a bike is not signed anywhere, so the contract is the only official record of the transfer. The more accurate it is, the better. It should state:
Identification of the parties: name, address, date of birth (or ID number) of both parties. Ideally, contact information – phone, email.
Description of the bike: Make, model, colour, type of bike (mountain, road, city, electric…), frame number (unique identification of the bike, often stamped on the bottom tube of the frame), year of manufacture, age estimate if applicable, equipment and accessories (e.g. lights, mudguards, speedometer, lock).
Purchase price and method of payment: how much the bike costs and how the amount will be paid (cash, transfer, partial, etc.). The date of receipt of the money – this is important, for example for tax purposes or in the event of a dispute.
Declaration of the bike’s origin: For example, that the bike is not stolen, is not encumbered by any third party rights (liens, etc.) and the seller is the owner.
The condition of the bike: A description of wear or defects – e.g. “scratches on the frame”, “worn tyres”, “functional but no warranty”. For electric bikes, also write down the condition of the battery and drive.
Handing over the bike: When and where the bike is transferred to the buyer and what all is transferred: documents, accessories, lock, charger, etc.
Special arrangements: e.g. “The buyer acknowledges that he/she is buying a used bike without warranty.” or “Seller warrants the functionality of the electric drive for 30 days.”
Buying a bike from a business vs. a private person
When buying a bike, there is a fundamental difference in what rights you have as a buyer. The decisive factor is who you bought the bike from.
A bike from a business (e.g. a bricks-and-mortar shop or an e-shop)
- It is covered by consumer protection.
- You have a legal guarantee of 24 months, unless you agree otherwise in the purchase contract.
- In the event of a defect, you have the right to make a claim – repair, replacement, discount or withdrawal from the contract.
- For online purchases, you have 14 days to return the goods without giving a reason.
Bicycle from a private person (e.g. from an advertisement)
- In this case, the Civil Code applies, but the guarantee is not automatic.
- Unless the contract states otherwise, you can only claim for hidden defects that were present on the bike at the time of purchase.
- Liability for wear and tear corresponding to the age and price of the bike is excluded.
This is why it definitely pays to be cautious when buying a bike “second hand” and always want a written contract of sale for the bike with as much detail as possible.
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What to look out for when buying a used bike
While you can safely try out and claim for a new bike from a shop, buying a bike from a second-hand shop, an advert or from a stranger can have a number of pitfalls that may surprise you some time after the purchase.
The first problem you may encounter is that the bike is stolen. Therefore, always check the frame number of the bike before buying. If it’s missing or tarnished, you should definitely beware. You can enter the number into registries such as KrimyBike or Cebia STOP Stolen Bikes. If buying a bike from a private individual, ask for proof of acquisition (invoice, warranty card, contract from a previous purchase, etc.).
You should also be interested in the technical condition of the bike. Take a test ride, which should reflect how you will actually use the bike. You probably won’t learn much during one lap in the yard. Check your brakes, chain and gears for wear. With electric bikes, you should also be concerned about the battery and its condition, as it can be half the value of the bike. If you’re unsure about anything, take the bike to a professional bike shop for a check-up.
Last but not least, look at the history of the bike. There are often cases where the seller claims the bike is minimally used, but the reality is that the condition of the bike is quite different. Therefore, focus your attention on the condition of the seat and pedals, this often reveals more than the paintwork of the frame.
What about an e-bike?
With electric bikes, the written contract is even more important. This is because they are significantly more expensive goods (usually worth CZK 30,000 or more) and technically more complex equipment. Therefore, the purchase contract for the bicycle should also state:
- Motor type and battery capacity (e.g. Bosch 500 Wh).
- Number of charging cycles.
- Battery condition (can be determined by diagnostics).
- Information about the last service.
- Whether the delivery of documents (invoice, warranty, diagnostics) is possible.
Also make sure that the bike meets the legal conditions for road use. For electric bikes, according to the European Parliament’s directive, they can only assist up to a maximum speed of 25 km/h and the motor power can be a maximum of 250 W. If the power is higher, the vehicle may already be considered a moped and you will need to wear a helmet when using it, have insurance and mark the vehicle with a number plate.
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Is there such a thing as a bike transcript?
After buying a car, you need to transfer it to the new owner within 10 days. There is no compulsory registration or transfer for bikes. However, we recommend registering with a database (e.g. the aforementioned KrimyBike, Cebia or BikeIndex). This will make it easier for you to trace your bike if it is stolen. When you sell it, you can then update the information or pass it on to the new owner.
When buying a bike, always ask for all the documents relating to the bike’s origin (invoices, warranties), the instruction manual if available, the charger and keys (e.g. for the battery or lock) and, if applicable, the service book if the bike has one.
The purchase contract for the bike does not have to be complicated. It may only be one page, but it will still save you a lot of nerves – for example, if it turns out later that the bike was stolen or not roadworthy. Especially if it’s a more expensive model or an electric bike. Also remember to check the frame number of the bike, check its condition and insist on a full receipt of all parts. When the agreement is clear, the ride will be carefree too.
Summary
A bike purchase agreement, whether new or used, is an important tool to protect both buyer and seller, as it serves as proof of the transfer of ownership and the terms of the purchase. It helps to avoid problems such as buying a stolen bike, disagreements about technical condition or equipment, and is particularly important when buying second-hand. The contract should include precise details of the parties, the bike (including frame number and equipment), the price, the method of payment, the condition of the bike and a statement of origin. If you buy a bike from a business, you are entitled to a warranty and a warranty claim, whereas if you buy from a private individual, you must rely on a good contract and your own prudence. For electric bikes, a written contract is even more important because of the higher price and complexity of the equipment – it is recommended to include information about the motor, battery and service history. Although bikes are not subject to registration, it is advisable to check the frame number and carry out a voluntary registration for possible theft. Overall: the more detailed the contract, the quieter the ride.
